Frequently Asked Questions

The R stands for “Re-release Date”.  So, a poster with “R 1987” means that was the poster that was published to accompany the 1987 re-release of a film. If it has no “R” it is usually labeled as an original release. In most cases, the original release poster holds more value, but in some cases (due to more interesting art or rarity), the re-release can be more valuable. In any case, they are all collectible and you should buy what you love. 

Those are different sizes for movie posters, from the US and elsewhere. Movie poster collectors tend to use these terms because it tells them the approximate size right away. For more information, please visit our Global Movie Poster Size Guide.

Most posters are folded because up until the 80’s, that was the way they were shipped to theaters. Sometimes they were folded up and shipped in the film canister as the film print traveled to theaters. In the 80’s the studios started to ship posters in tubes and those are considered rolled, though folded posters were still very much in circulation until 2000 or so. Having a folded vs a rolled poster can impact the price. Usually, when you frame a poster, the fold lines tend to fade into the background. If folds really bother you, you can consider getting the poster linen backed. This smooths the fold lines out, and further resoration can repair any fold wear. These are not services we offer.

Any folded poster will have some fold wear. Fold wear is less about fold lines than it is about paper loss: Did some of the paper or ink wear away? This can be more visible on dark, glossy posters. Fold separation is when there is so much wear, the paper actually tears along the fold line. Be VERY careful when unfolding posters, because you never know how weak the paper is until you hear the telltale rip. If the paper does separate, it can be carefully repaired with acid free tape from the back, or sending it to be linen backed. 

Other common issues with posters are pinholes, tape residue or edge wear. Edge wear usually pertains to rolled posters. It might mean there’s a little crinkling on the edges, or small fold lines in the corners. 

As with all collectibles, condition matters. The photos on our site are all of the actual item for sale. Please click on the images to zoom in and look carefully at the photos so you know what you are getting. If you have any questions at all, don’t hesitate to contact us.

For more information on poster conditions and grading, please see Poster Condition Ratings

There are a number of factors that go into an evaluation. Size, paper stock and print quality, are the first things we look at. Then we would examine it for telltale signs like a fold or crease that is printed, or printed dust specks or other abnormalities. Another factor is long experience with common fakes and what telling features they exhibit. Where did the poster come from and is it a reputable source? And sometimes even I get a second opinion on something that seems too good to be true. Remember, this started as my personal collection, so I was VERY careful in what I bought. There are a lot of fakes out there, but I stand by our products to be 100% authentic vintage posters and memorabilia.

We package only in heavy duty tubes or reinforced envelopes. If sent in a tube, it will be wrapped in paper to protect it from the tube and also to prevent edge damage in shipping. Open one end and gently slide the paper and poster out. If you receive a folded poster, be VERY careful when unfolding. It is very easy to accidentally tear paper along the fold lines, especially with older paper. You never know how weak the paper is until you hear the telltale rip. I've done it myself.

Examine the item right away for any damage not mentioned or visible in the product page. Let us know if there are any problems ASAP. All our shipments are insured, and we will work with you to make it right. 

Make sure your framer only uses acid free materials. Acid is the enemy of paper.

UV rays are also the enemy of paper and ink. Use UV safe plexiglass if you can, and don’t hang in areas with direct sunlight. Fading is a real problem, especially with older posters.

Use plexiglass (preferably UV safe), not glass to frame. If the frame breaks, the shattered glass can scratch the poster. 

NEVER mount your poster to a mounting board. It is not best practices for archival care and will immediately lower the value of your poster, and even damage it over time. If I am going for a really smooth look, or the paper is fragile, I will get posters linen backed. There are some purists who don’t like linen backing, but it is a very common and acceptable way to protect your paper.

If you want great frames done right at a great price, click on over to my friend Sue Heim at Hollywood Poster Frames (www.hollywoodposterframes.com). Tell her Poster Palace sent you. She has framed 10’s of thousands of posters in her career. She will do it right. She has framed every one of my posters. And that’s a lot of posters. A lot of posters.

Those are magnets we use to hold the poster and keep it flat when we take photos. Any markings on the poster itself will be called out in the condition description.

Depending on what camera and lens are used to take the photo, the top & bottom or the sides can appear as if they are not parallel. Please be assured that this is due to the lens used, and that all posters have squared corners, and that they are untrimmed unless marked as trimmed.